This is page 4 of 4 documenting the
conversion of the El Camino to
Throttle Body Injection.

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This is the original cable bracket.



I cut the old one in pieces, and used the throttle cable end, and bolted it to an intermediate piece I fabricated with the Aluminum from Robert. It isn't pretty, but it was hours of measuring twice and cutting once.... OK 3 or 4 times. There is no pattern for this. I measured the original cables carefully.


The one nib is too short to line up with the Cruise rod. I had to drill that one out.



This shows the extension I used on the AFB for the same purpose.


This is the relay board, with 2 fuses, the fuel pump relay, and the ESC module (Top view).
  Look Ma... No screws sticking out. I ground down the ends to be flush.
  There is room under the passenger side cover, but only IF you get rid of the kittle vent 'A' frame hump on one side. I know Robert put his behind the radio, but I have too much back there already.
  Re-covered with the insulation.
  view from the compartment side. Glad it isn't too visible. I had to relocate the courtesy lamp further to the center. (round hole)
4/5/05 This just came in the mail today. $32 on eBay.

Parts total for today:

 Parts list for the tools and parts today::

Fuel Relay CQ #EC RY109 $15.43
(Interchange w GM 14078915)

Crimp connectors, Ace HDW.

  4/6/05 Worked on routing and connecting wires from 7 PM till 2 AM. All but the distributor is wired. Not sure of routing with the MSD.

Called Robert and confirmed routing. Used the white wire, instead of the green/purple, to the 2 wire terminal of the distributor. Tried to start, sounded like battery is dead. Something's rotten. Fuel pump runs for a short time, sounds like relays fighting each other for power of the starter solenoid on cranking. Does not turn over. Won't start.

I'm to tired to fight. F it for tonight. Is it the wiring on the solenoid? See pic (click for closer) the instructions say "small wire on inside terminal" Thanks.... which one? symptoms are the same with purple wire unhooked.














New MAP sensor

Misc. Ground Cables, and terminals $22.00

More brass fittings for the vac lines $8.43

I got it running after getting 3 new battery cable ground wires. I have a dual post battery (new January), and grounded the battery to the new block off plate for the fuel pump, that screws in to the block. I have the rest of everything else.... Firewall, fuel pump, fender, starter solenoid, computer, and MSD, grounded to a 4 way block designed for monster stereos. That goes to the top post on the battery.

It fired right up after it was grounded properly. Everyone was right about that one, and I am grateful.

I had the check engine light right off the bat. The code was 33, for the MAP sensor. I replaced the junkyard version (Robert helped me figure out that the Caddy & this application probably don't interchange. I got a new Delco version from the FLPS($50), and it fired right up. I had to clear the codes, by removing the fuse for a short time, and upon firing it up again, I had 2 trouble codes. MAP and 42 Spark Control (ECM chips) I cleared it again, took a different source for the vacuum (I was using the lowest one on the TBI unit, but it must be metered).

After the reset, it fired up with no light, and has had no light since.

First test drive (to get gas in the empty tank). It was hesitating quite a bit, and if you really romped on it at a stop, it was bad. It backfired d s couple times too. I advanced the timing, and it woke right up. This engine has always liked being advanced.

Second test drive was awesome. The off idle response is better than it has ever been. Because most of my time is spent in stop & go, this will be great.

I have noticed a lot of Carbon coming from the exhaust. I believe that there is probably a lot of carbon build up, from a long time of running rich (in comparison), with the carb.

The biggest thing I need to do is to drive it, and work out those injectors, that have been idle for such a long time.


Plastic wire loom tubing $4.00

I cleaned up the engine compartment and tucked in all the wires. Looks a lot better, and shouldn't have any melted wires. Make sire you have a lot of little black zip ties! (Larger view is very large on this one)


I brought the timing back down to about 6, nad made some re adjustments to the IAC. This helped idle, and hesitation at part throttle. I had advise from another friend to put it to 4 to see what it does. Not used to the computer handling these things.


 Running Total $908.57**

(Please don't go back and re add all this to see if it's right, I had to have missed something anyway)

Your cost could vary greatly.
If you don't have the MSD system already, or spark plugs, or any number of a hundred other things I had 'just laying around', This could cost you more or less than it cost me.

Many thanks to Ray Buck, for taking the MSD Pro Billet Distributor off my hands, as well as Jim Dos, for buying the Accell Distributor, and Carter AFB that came off the car at the end. This really helped to contribute to the (non existent) pool of cash needed to finish the project. I can't say enough about what a help Robert Adams has been through this. These are all members of the El Camino Internet List.

Note to the Note...... This project will always need more money, and will never be completed. That's Car Crafting for ya! (donations accepted <Grin>)

Fuel Injection badge.... proudly worn

Passed Emissions Testing 4/11/2005


HC (Grams)
CO (Grams)
CO2 (Grams)

Follow Up Info:

I am having a problem with the TCC locking up in the 350C, It does so just fine, but on & off all the time at 30 - 35 mph. This can be corrected by having a custom chip burned. I will pursue that when I get the $80 to have someone do it.
Custom Chip is the Solution
 8/3/05 Purchased 350 injectors. I discovered in the research for the chip, that I have 305 injectors, 40# per hour. The ones I got from Ebay were $xx, and are rated at 55 # per hour. $50 on eBay.
Installed the next week. Had to get a kit for the seals and gaskets. About $25

 9/14/05 Installed Standard Performance brand 3 wire Oxygen sensor. This was $59. GM Part number 25176708, AC Delco #213-632

The sending lead is black, and there are 2 white wires. You put an ignition + to one white wire, and ground the other one, for the heating element.

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9/17/05 DISASTER ..... Blown Head Gasket
Page 1, Page 2

The heads were NOT 350 heads, the machine shop had some replacement 350 heads for $300, all fresh. So that's what went on. The compression was terrible, because the chambers were bigger than the old heads, and the pistons were bowl shaped.

Back together again. Still fine tuning. 10/29/05
Used a scan tool to check operation of replacement O2 sensor, and other systems. I have some bad lifters, and there is a miss. See the details to the right: 

Also on 10/29/05 Replaced the Fuel sending unit with my original one, but modified by Robert Adams to work with FI.

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Idle , in Drive
  • Loop state: Closed (It stayed that way the whole time. With one wire O2 sensor, it alternated open/closed at idle)
  • MAP: 40kpa
  • MAP Volts: 1.54-1.70 (changed all the time)
  • O2: lean/rich/ alternating 3-5 sec
  • O2 Volts: .56
  • O2 Xcnts: (0-7 varied all the time)
  • Park/Neutral: on/off (verified)
  • PROM ID: 9461
  • Spec: IVLD
  • TPS: .82v. @ idle, in park or drive. Variable 1.47@ 2500 RPM (.... power brake)
    ** I was told that this is too high**
  • VSS: Operational, verified
  • A/C Clutch: Operational, verified
  • Volts: 13.3-13.4 @ idle in Park, 12.1-12.4 @ idle in Drive
  • BLM: 130 (?What is this? A learning mode?)
  • Coolant: 91 degrees C (183.7* F) This was rock
  • steady, even when driving.
  • Diagnostic State: Road
  • Engine RPM 475-550 at idle in drive
  • Idle air: 2-7 (varied all the time)
  • Integrator: 129-131 (?)
  • Knock sensor: NO
    We tested this last time, and only got it to knock at almost 55 in 1st gear, so I know the sensor works.
  • After battling poor performance form an engine with very low compression, I bought a marine 350, 1990 vintage. The following is after installation of this engine

    Aug. 1 2006    It's running again.

    I have some clearance issues with the linkage, and air cleaner. Looking for a stock truck or F body TBI manifold to correct the issues. The fuel lines are really cramped next to the vacuum lines too.

    Nice to have it back on the road though.

    You will notice the kick down cable pulled loose, and set behind where it's supposed to be. This allows for about another half inch, and gets the kick down working again. I need the manifold and brackets to really change anything here.

    Fun in the Sun
    Aug. 1st, 2006

    Record heat index. On the way to the junk yard, I had a complete power failure. It tried to restart once, but then I had no power at all. The car shut off, and I had nothing but courtesy lights. Not even flashers. I put the hood up to get traffic to go around.

    This was the first time I have ever had the El Camino towed. It just about got impounded, but the Lady Police officer had mercy, and let me wait for the free tow from my insurance company. They were only 10 minutes away. It was northbound on Route 25 (no shoulder), only 3 lanes there anyway, just short of the intersection of Route 64. 1.5 miles from home.

    I called Robert when I got home, and he was on the phone with me when I found the wires. I had called him, and left a message, and dove in with the multi meter to start testing. We ruled out a lot, before pulling on the shielding of the wires in question. You see what I came up with.

    Ended up to be the fuseable links, and attached wires. Of course these were in a tube, bolted to the bell housing, obstructed by headers and a starter. That was the biggest PITA. I bought a fuse block at the local NAPA that was still open, and put it in a temporary spot. It's running again. Still need time to refine it. (correct connectors)

    This could be the stalling and cutting out gremlin I have had for a long time.

    Click on the pictures for a bigger view.

    Below is a picture of the improved connections. 8/4/2006 The connectors were the wrong size, and one vibrated loose. I soldered the connections and used heat shrink tubing.

    August 4th, 2006 Car was bucking and missing on the way home from work. Died in the driveway when I pulled in. Started and moved again, but something was up. I took the above assembly out, trying to find an intermittant miss. A new fuse set up is on the way, but I hard wired them to try and isolate the problem
    Talked to Robert on the phone, and deducted that the pickup coil inside the distributor could be the culprit. I found one for $10 at the friendly local parts store. See what the old one looks like compared to new, at the right.
    Yuck. The new and the old ....

    This is the spare distributor, with the new coil under the cleaned up copper collar. I ended up putting the new module I bought on this too. It was in the car while I was working with this one.

    I cleaned up the top as best I could as well. Turned out the distributor gear was a lot less worn on the one in the engine too, so I transferred all the best parts to one distributor.
    August 5th. We went out to eat tonight, and Cindy even commented on how good the engine sounded. (Minor miracle there) It starts better than it has since the TBI conversion, if that's any indication. No miss so far, but this was a real random thing. Let's hope this was the other major gremlin.  August 7th. Back to the same old tricks. Just died ... flat out , on the way home. Restarted, but it was in gear! Going to check the ignition switch, and all the under hood wiring. All signs point to the computer or the chips, or both.
    8/20 - The El Camino has been dead for a couple weeks. I have a bad computer (I think ... I hope).

    I bought a TBI intake on ebay for $23, shipped.
    I am piecing together the brackets to make all the linkages work better.

    I have a computer coming from TX for $25
    I have brand new chips from GM ($66)

    August 26th. It's a great day. The new computer fixed the problem. I am taking issue with Standard Automotive parts. The rebuilt one I got Months earlier never worked, and in fact caused me a lot of grief. That was a big problem even before changing the engine. Gobs of power. I can break the tires loose pretty much at will, but if they hook up ... hold on.

    This engine sounds really great. Problem declared solved a week later.

    September 8th, the parts store gave me a new computer for free. Thanks to Thompson's Auto Parts, Saint Charles, IL.

    I set up a page to post some data logged from the WinALDL program. I bought a cord that plugs in to my laptop from The software is available here. See this page for results.

    As I learn more about the program,, and log more data, I'll post more on that page.

    I bought this on eBay for $23 shipped. looks pretty rough
    I painted it with heavy bodied stripper, and went to the car wash
    This is a rig I fabbed up to keep the sand from going everywhere. They had some black stuff at the lumber yard for sandblasting, cost about $8
    Partially blasted, letting the compressor catch it's breath. Notice the Aluminum tape, keeping the gasket mating surfaces clean. Thanks for the tip Robert!
    Finished, and ready to hose out all the sand, then install.

     I used the Aircraft Aluminum from my old TBI adaptor to make an EGR block off plate. We have a polisher on the premises <G>
    This is the booty from the junk yard crawl on 9/9/06. 2 brackets from throttle body trucks, and a taller air cleaner than I have, complete with K&N element. $25 for all.
    This is the bracket that I separated, wire brushed, sanded and painted, and put back together. Both of the trucks these came from had the nut shown, with a 15 mm stud, and a 13 mm nut to hold the bracket out a ways from the head. There was another bracket for wires you can see in the picture above. Don't think I am gonna use it.
    I discovered mid way in to the sanding, that this lid will fit the bottom that I have already modified to work with the cowl induction hood. Doesn't look very pretty next to that top though!
    The bottom half gets a little scuff and squirt.
    These are the size of the existing (250K miles) Cruise diaphragm, next to the new ones. Will the new one work? All the plugs and hoses are the same. The back half looks identical.

    I installed the new one and it works great. Better clearance too.
       What happened next?

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